Day 2
The
next morning I woke up at around 5 and prepared to hike up to the hilltop
I had been to the previous evening. With essentials in my frame pack and
my headlamp on, Frank and I set out long before dawn and huffed and puffed
our way up to the hilltop in 45 minutes. I suppose it was really only me
who huffed and puffed since Frank ran enough to climb that hill 18 times,
and was hardly panting. I got to the top and watched clouds redden and
catch fire in the east. The sun peaked above the horizon and hit the eastern
wall of the mountains before me, turning them rosy pink. It was cold, and
the breeze blew stiffly even at 6AM. I sat on top of the biggest rock I
could find, in the sun, as Frank pranced around the open flower-covered
tundra searching for anything and everything of interest to a dog.
By 7, the show was finished, and bright white light had replaced the
warm rosy glow of dawn. I hiked down to Grassy Pass and then back up toward
Rawah #4 at 11,400’. The hike up was difficult. The map shows a trail but
I never found it, nor really needed it. Open meadows and rock fields were
easy to navigate, although the going was slow. Arriving at the lake was
like a hush over the audience. Cold, clear, greenish water sat still as
glass in the protected cirque. On 3 sides, rock walls rose up almost vertically
another thousand feet, peaking at the top of North Rawah Peak
on the north side of the lake. Permanent snowfields lined the rocks. Unlike
the shallow, sandy bottom of Sandbar Lakes, one only saw naked rocks in
this lake, lining a steep grade down into a black abyss that was almost
eerie in its depth. It was not a cheery lake, but it was very beautiful.
It was a lake I would have felt nervous sleeping next to. I fished around
the east side of the lake and finally found my spot near the outlet of
the lake where I hauled in the biggest trout I ever caught. He was a 19"
Cutthroat. I stalked him from behind a large rock, dragging my fly through
the water just in front of him. That is one of the big thrills of fishing
alpine lakes. You actually watch the entire process happen. You can see
exactly when the old fish spots the fly, how he gives his tail a quick
flick or two and opens that gaping white-lipped mouth to swallow your deceptive
lure. You try to time your jerk on the line to set the hook right as he
hits it, before he can spit it out cleanly. This fish was so big I wondered
if the line would break so I brought him in very slowly. Amazingly, I landed
him on this tiny #18 fly and took a quick shot of him next to my fly reel.
His throat was so red it looked like I had gutted him. I caught three more
in that same area, but none as large as that first one.
The Columbines and Indian Paintbrush at the lakeside were brilliant, and
I took time to examine these in detail. I sat on the knoll holding back
the lake on the east side and ate beef jerky and crackers. Large clouds
came over the summit, and I kept expecting thunderstorms to build, but
they never did, and it remained mostly sunny for most of the morning. I
left the lake further south than the way I had come and made my way sideways
over to a dramatic perch above Grassy Pass with a view of Bench Lake, 1
mile to the south. Frank and I headed downhill and went to visit
Rawah #3, where I fished and caught 3 large rainbows. Some of the
best flowers I saw the entire trip were along the drainage
from Rawah #3 to #2. I intended to fish there on the way down, but there
was a compound of tents and lamas right next to the lake and I didn’t want
to have to keep Frank on a leash so we just went back to camp around 3.
Good thing I did since when I returned my head was pounding so hard I could
hardly think. I napped for an hour in the tent, but that didn’t help, so
I decided to heck with it and went fishing anyway in Upper Sandbar and
Big Rainbow. Maybe my headache slowed my senses because I didn’t manage
to land anything.
Back in camp Frank immediately began growling softly in the uphill direction,
staring intently at the trees on the other side of the small clearing.
I grabbed my walking stick to fend off any bears that might come rambling
through and stood quietly as Frank continued to growl. One never really
likes to hear their dog growling softly at unseen shapes in the woods.
I walked slowly up the hill, and then heard loud thuds and crashes in the
underbrush as a buck went bounding up the hill, out of sight. Well, I don’t
suppose there was anything to fear with that deer around until we got there.
I went to bed early that night and decided to sleep in as long as possible
in the morning. |