It was day 3 of our
great 2005 Pacific Northwest getaway. We cruised up Hwy 1 with the nonchalance
only tourists are capable of. I scanned the Oregon gazetteer as Andra drove
north, and engaged in an unending conversation regarding where to stop,
and when to keep going, knowing that we could not possibly stop at all
the roadside attractions along the way to Washington.
From the map, a jutting
finger of land poking out like a thumb from the continent caught my eye,
and it looked like just the sort of place we needed to be. We followed
the winding roads through forests and fields until we arrived at the parking
lot for the Cape Point trail at around 10AM. The sun was shining without
hindrance, just as I like it. The parking lot was cool and quiet in the
shade of massive spruce and fir trees. Only 2 cars were in the lot. Their
occupants were not to be seen. We packed up some refreshments into my daypack
and I grabbed my camera and we were off down the trail.
Shaded densely, the
narrow path was soft and spongy like a 3 foot layer of pressed sawdust.
Ferns covered the ground on both sides of the trail, while giant trees
created the feeling of being inside a building rather than outdoors. The
air was calm and thick. The trail led west, with the land sloping away
steeply to the south, into the ocean. So far down was the water that the
waves could be seen, but not heard. Within 50 yard of the trailhead, the
trail branched, with one fork leading downward, presumably to the water,
and the other fork staying level and heading west. We headed west.
The smell of the forest
is perhaps one of the most exciting smells I know of. The smell of the
forest is the smell of fun, if you ask me. Flecks of sunlight littered
the ground of wet soil and rotting leaves as we walked quickly in the cool
morning air. High banks of sword ferns lined the trail, while graceful
maidenhair ferns clung to the north faces of rocky banks and downed logs.
Moss covered almost everything. The trail stayed pretty level, only dipping
down as it crossed ravines, then returning to the same elevation. It was
quite easy walking. The ocean was in view to the south for the first half
of the trek, then the trail meandered over to the north side of the peninsula
and the ocean was again in view to the north, only now we could hear the
crashing of the waves and enjoy the foam and surf on the volcanic rock
shore below. From the best vantage point of this action, a chain-link fence
lined the trail to prevent overzealous watchers from plunging down the
Cliffside 200 feet to the water below.
We passed several groups
of people, seemingly more than was warranted by the low number of cars
in the lot. Their voices did not travel far in the thick growth, and we
heard them little more than a few seconds before seeing them, and then
they were gone. I stopped often to take photographs in the golden forest
light, the liquid ditty floating on microscopic water droplets wafting
through the air beneath the spruces. Continuing on the trail brought us
back around to the southern-face, and here and there the trail darted out
of the trees and into the bright sunlight. In these areas the cliffs were
so steep that trees could not grow, and metal rails held trekkers on the
trail. We had not initially intended to hike the entire peninsula, but
we were so enjoying ourselves that we found ourselves out at the end of
the trail before long. A park bench situated in a gravel clearing provided
a nice spot for a lunch of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, and an inquisitive
squirrel provided entertainment in excess of the tremendous views out to
sea we had from this cliff-top vantage point. Looking back east, the main
coast looked so far away it was as if we had boarded a giant ship that
was just heaving to. Below us, the ocean currents could be discerned by
the change in water color, and the giant dark blue arcs swept out to the
horizon as if ships had passed by and we were watching their wakes. The
peninsula did not in fact end at this point, but the designers of the trail
did not construct any convenient path to go further. Behind the park bench,
thick shrubs barred easy passage, and a fence bounded the other half of
the clearing on the cliffside. We sat enjoying ourselves for 20 minutes
until we heard approaching voices, and decided it was too small a place
to pack too many people, and began walking back.
The walk back seemed
to take longer than the walk in, perhaps because it was not nearly so amazing
to see the trail a second time. Many more people were on the trail, and
I wondered how popular this place would be in the summer. In an hour and
a half, give or take, we were back at the car.
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